Applique-
A cloth ornamentation that is laid upon and applied, usually via
small stitches, to another textile medium
Bark Cloth- A
medium weight fabric with a rough surface which resembles the bark
of a tree. Used extensively for draperies in the 1940’s and 1950’s
Aniline Dyes-
Chemical dyes (as opposed to vegetable ones) derived from coal
tar. These were developed for use in the late 1850s.
Crash-
A linen cotton or cotton mix suitable for kitchen towels. Better
grades with softer feel and higher thread counts are used for
tablecloths.
Damask-
A fabric of silk, rayon, and cotton or other combinations of
fibers woven in jacquard weave with reversible flat designs.
Dyestuff-
Dyes used for printing color on textiles.
Embroidery-
Ornamental needlework done on the fabric itself.
Fugitive-
An unstable dye that tends to run, fade, or change colors.
Ghost Fabric-
A textile that contained a fugitive dye, leaving no color or only
a little color. This condition is most often seen in some red and
green dyes as well as pinks and blues from the 1850 to the 1930s
Homespun-
A very coarse, rough linen, wool, or cotton or man\endash made
fiber or blend in varied colors, generally in a plain weave.
Linen-
This is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times
the strength of cotton. It is made from flax, a bast fiber taken
from the stalk of the plant. The l uster is from the natural wax
content. Creamy white to light tan, this fiber can be easily dyed
and the color does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle
easily.
Madder-
A shrubby herb grown for the dyeing properties of its root. Madder
is the basic colorant for Turkey red and the coppery brows of the
late 1800s.
Mercerization-
Originally developed by John Mercer about 1850, the process was
forgotten until 1890 when the idea was patented. It is a process
that gives an increase in flexibility, strength, and luster to
cotton tablecloths. Advertised on tablecloths produced between
1920- 1940.
Mordant-
A chemical agent that fixes a dyestuff to a fiber.
Over dyed/Over printed-
A tablecloth that was vat dyed in two different baths, or stamped
first with one color then stamped or overprinted with another to
create a third color.
Plush-
A heavy-pile fabric with a deeper pile than velvet or velour.
Rayon
-Made from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a n
natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent,
comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to
resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high
temperatures. The word "Rayon" is a man-made word. Kenneth Lord,
Sr., coined the phrase in 1924 during and industry sponsored
contest to find a name for what was known as artificial silk.
Sailcloth-
A generic name for fabrics used for sails. It is usually made of
cotton, linen, jute, or nylon and is a heavy, almost
canvas-feeling fabric. Favorite fabric of both Wilendur and
Startex.
Sanforized-Trade
name of a process for shrinkage control. Residual shrinkage of not
over 1 percent guaranteed. Developed in the 1950s and advertised
on some tablecloth tags during that time.
Tapestry-
A jacquard woven fabric in cotton, wool, or man-made fibers. The
design is woven in by means of colored filling yarns. On the back,
shaded stripes identify this fabric.
Turkey Red-
A specific shade of red produced from the madder plant. The
technique involved placing fabric in an oil bath. A colorfast dye,
it was first developed in Turkey. Turkey red can fade to pink with
use.
Velour-
A smooth, closely woven pile fabric usually of cotton, wool, or
man-made fibers, it is heavier than velvet
Velvet-
Silk, rayon, nylon or acrylic cut pile fabric.
